After lunching at Ma Maison and browsing through the galleries and gift shops of Rue Lavaud, a delightfully eccentric artist sells me a CD of soulful French ballads.

It would be a lovely way to spend a chilly afternoon in any French village, but I get more of a kick out of the fact that I am on New Zealand's South Island. In Akaroa, to be precise.

The harbourside village makes much of its French connections, with everything from the local internet cafe (Bon Email) to the day spa (La Lumiere) and fudge factory (Pot Pourri) getting in on the act.

As the story goes, a shipload of French settlers sailed into Akaroa Harbour, on the Banks Peninsula, on July 11, 1840 – which, as it turns out, was six days too late because the British had just raised a Union Jack there.

A French whaler thought he had bought the whole peninsula from 11 Maori chiefs in 1838, but putting all hard feelings aside, his French settlers established Akaroa which now has a population of about 600 that can swell well into the thousands during summer holidays.

It is obvious to see why Akaroa is a tourist favourite.

The 80km drive from Christchurch, initially through scenic plains before climbing into mountainous country offering breathtaking views, makes it perfect for daytrippers.

The road ends at Akaroa, so its pretty harbour and quirky French influence makes it a natural destination, and the abundance of accommodation, summer sunshine and outdoor pursuits doesn't hurt either.

Then, there is the native fauna. What's more lovable than a dolphin? How about the world's smallest, rarest dolphin?

During a cruise operated by Akaroa Dolphins, our knowledgeable guide describes the baby Hector's dolphin, which make their home in the bay, as looking like a football with fins.

I missed seeing the few that passed us by (I admit I was distracted by Murphy, the boat operator's seafaring puppy), but I did see a penguin and a colony of seals that gave the dolphins a run for their money in the cuteness stakes.

If you prefer land-based leisure pursuits, or if you have kids, you must visit Josie Martin's surreal residence, The Giants House – which is also a Bed and Breakfast.

Blue-haired Josie (the aforementioned artist) has spent years transforming the gardens of the home built by Akaroa's original banker into an Alice In Wonderland-style blend of witty sculptures, mosaics and clever plantings.

In the warmer months, she serves tea and coffee in the garden (and you needn't worry if junior knocks over your cup – any breakages will be put to good use in her next mosaic).



By HOLLY NOTT - AAP
* The writer was a guest of Christchurch and Canterbury Tourism.